Surfing is a lifestyle, full stop. It isn’t like tennis, badminton, or volleyball. If there are waves, I almost run out of the resort, getting into my favorite swimwear.
This sport is special to me in a way that almost no other sports can compare with. It engage me in an activity where I totally connected with the elements- the sea engulfs us and I at once is 99% water inside and 100% sorrounded by water outside. I am in a physically neutral state of balance, and internally mentally bouyant.
SURFING IS LIKE A LIFESTYLE, AN ADDICTION, AND A HEALTHY OUTDOOR ACTIVITY.
It feels like you have harnessed the power and are enjoying it, feels like you forget everything else in the world except the waves and you. Surfing feels like you have a free ride to get more closer to nature.
I adapt the energy of the entire ocean to my pleasure, I sit in under the sun or rain, indifferent to the weather, I return to the land afterwards, feeling both that I am back where I belong but also like I am somehow incomplete, having left a part of myself back out in the ocean.
As a surfer, you will, almost without a doubt, be one of those few lucky people who have at least realized what a surfboard is for. At whatever level you surf, you will have experienced moments of freedom. The sound of the ocean waves is very therapeutic, it calms my soul and provided me somehow a peace of mind.
The thing is, once you have the taste of this feeling, theres no reason to believe that we can only experience it in water, on a surfboard. There is no need to think about anything else. There is no need to polish the board or to put it in a case to enjoy surfing, because all you really need is the willingness to surf.
Back when we’re all a child one the first few essential thing that was taught to us is how to walk on land, and having the confidence to stand on a piece of wood and be with the ocean is priceless.
Surfing is also a form of execise it can help your body to stay fit and healthy, since surfing will require body coordination. There’s always a first time to everything, allow yourself to be a beginner. You may see surfing hard at first, the bruises from bumping your body on the surfing board and the water will all be worth it on the end.
Like what Moana, a disney princess said “If I go, there is just no telling how far I will go”. Chasing your dream is like surfing, full of fear and excitement but the journey and the ocean waves that you will face in life is just an obstacle for you to reach your dream, use this obstacle as a strength.
Glam Life 